Sunday, August 22, 2010

Polako, bona.


There's a word here in Sarajevo that's used a lot, and it resonates with the Aussie in me - polako (poh-la-ko). It has a simple and humble meaning: slowly (direct translation), do what you're doing with ease (indirect) - or in Aussie terms, take it easy, mate.

So I've been trying to take that advice a little bit. Ease up and take pleasure in things like the fact that I can eat breakfast on my bedroom window sill while looking over the overgrown hedge, and take in the view of Sarajevo from my perched little spot on the hill. Take pleasure in the fact that I live on a hill - be humbled by the fact that not everything is around the corner - and that it takes time and effort to get to places and do all the shopping I need in one go. Then there's also the ease one has to force on themselves when you get your first fine for fare evasion on a tram (fuckers!) and the complete and utter disappointment that comes with realising your wallet's gone missing in Bosnia.

In the last couple of weeks I've parted with my wallet which I got from my first ever Woodford experience and all it's precious contents, I've been mildly homesick while watching the crazy freak show circus that is our federal election, I've gone on a pretty wild overnight train experience to Zagreb in Croatia in order to vote at the Australian embassy with my friend Juliet, I've started a project called 365 (you take a photo that defines your day for 365 days in order to document your life over a year), I've met a radical environmentalist - a novelty here in Bosnia, I've had a friend visit for a week, I've hosted my first couch surfer (most likely to be future housemate back in Melbourne...crazy), and I've discovered the wonderful world of DM - the German Priceline-esque store that makes me feel like I'm back home with it's earl grey tea and muesli.

Deep breath.

Wow. It's been a big couple of weeks when I put it like that!

I've noticed myself falling into a bit of a trap though - my life has become a bit of a permanent holiday in some ways. I've committed myself to translation work with an environmental activist group, but the work is freelance so I take my work home. Did I mention I have a degree in procrastination? A PhD, in fact! On the agenda for the next 6 weeks- hopefully get into a routine of walking these hills that surround me (don't worry I'll go where there aren't any land mines!), keep on practicing guitar, and hopefully get into more of this environmental activist work.

One thing that I will be starting this week is setting up a green curriculum for primary schools. It's a total pilot project that I'm going to be working on with my new friend Adis, and we have no true idea of how successful it'll be in practice, but we're gonna give it a damn good shot. My idea was to set up a set of 5 or 6 themes surrounding the most important environmental issues in Sarajevo, using a common lesson plan or template proforma. That's about as far as I've got with my idea at this stage - but hoping to turn it into something practical by the time I'm due to leave!

The next week will also consist of potentially a trip to Gradiska (depending on one of my grandma's plans) and a canyoning trip - that's right...I've signed up for some extreme sport action next weekend - let's hope I come back in one piece. I'm a little nervous, but...well...fuck it. Polako, and it'll all be fine.

And on that note, I am going to spare you my political commentary and leave this blog void of politics.

Hope you are all well, full and happy my darling readers.

Thanks and polako, bona!

Sej xx

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Settle in Sarajevo





Woa! It's been a freaky deaky while, hasn't it?

I haven't blogged for what feels like almost a month and to be honest I don't really know where to begin, almost! I've been working pretty hard at settling in the ol' town of Sarajevo.

So what's the hap's?

Last time I checked, there are major floods in Pakistan which are now considered to be worse than the tsunami that devastated the world not so long ago; Mexican waters are still a complete mess and BP's CEO resigned; Tony Abbott is a tosser among tossers in the land of politics (thank you GetUp! for your awesome ad campaign highlighting this particular dimwit's attitude towards wom*n!); my parents have painted the house; my sister's, partner's, brother's, wife is pregnant; my boyfriend's dad's driving from Melbourne to Perth for charity; little Winona entered the world (congrats Nat and Jaes - she's freakin' beautiful!); and today was the first day of Ramadan - the Muslim month of fasting. And I've hit the half way point of my trip!

A lot can happen in a matter of weeks! Congratulations Simon and Sarah, if you're out there somewhere reading this!

So what's been going on in the world of Sarajevo? Well, a lot actually. I arrived back to what is now my home about two weeks ago with the intention to stick around for about a month. I spent the first week or so 'faffing' around and getting random bits and pieces sorted out for my flat. I also attended some cool events for the Sarajevo International Film Festival. I had a profound realisation after seeing one movie in particular, which had small snippets of Melbourne life. I worked it out.

What exactly, did I work out?

Well - frankly - my identity. I think I've got it, finally. I know where I belong and why. I'm Australian. I have a very deep connection to the land here in Bosnia, but not for the same reasons that I have connections to the land in Australia. I've spent so much of my life in Australia and so much of what Australia represents is familiar to me. Even with it's somewhat deranged and un-inspirational politicians, I'm completely in love with that little island of ours.

How stupidly simple is that?

In saying all this though, I don't want to discredit or undermine the beautiful experiences, people, landscapes and musical fun that I've experienced in Bosnia and Croatia. This place has something very old, wise, and deeply moving about it. I feel like I understand the culture a little better than ever in my life and I can safely say that I am slightly defensive of this patch of Earth, but I couldn't live here for longer than intended for this trip. Huh! What a relief. Now I know.

So, after this spectacular bit of work aside (by work I mean working out my identity), I was left a little unsettled. It's been difficult to know exactly where to begin a 2 month stint in one particular location, and to know that I have no specific commitments. So I started working on the practicalities. I've been looking for a bit of volunteer work and managed to find a couple of organisations that focus on environmental awareness and activism, and eco tourism. This has been very exciting. This city is all about growth at the moment. It's all about developing a status in the world which allows for people to visit without thinking that it's a war torn zone.

The city is filled with backpackers. I hear an Australian accent almost on a daily basis. I definitely see at least 10 foreigners within the first 10 minutes of being in the Old Town. I have a feeling that the next 5-10 years in BiH will shift dramatically, on both the touristic and political scenes. Why? Well, when the backpackers start to brag about the affordability of travelling the Balkans, the more conservative (and let's face it - richer) tourists will follow - and this will change the market for local business. Politicians will be driven to promote the country...and I'm hoping will finally join the EU. I'm also hoping that they'll drop the ridiculous policy that stops Bosnian citizens from leaving the country without a visa. At the moment, if anyone here wants to travel anywhere...and I mean anywhere outside of this country, they have to apply for a visa - which is an arduous and long process of dodging red tape, bureaucratic bullshit, and nasty public sector workers. It's a nightmare. I wish that the intelligent and energetic youth of Sarajevo could leave as freely as Australian youth to discover the wonderful parts of Western Europe, UK, Africa, Asia, Australia, USA and...anywhere their heart's desire.

If only the beautifully giving people of Sarajevo and Bosnia could experience things through travel and bring their newly acquired self-learning back to work, to life and eventually grow old here, knowing for certain that this is the place for them. Just like I've had the chance to discover that Australia is where I want to do all those things.

So on another political note, I get to vote twice in the next couple of months. I hear that the election is going to be interesting back home. I am planning a little overnight trip to Zagreb with my friend in order to vote (it's the closest place we can do it, and our postal ballet papers haven't arrived on time...thanks Australia!)which should be loads of fun. I have yet to work out how to register here in Bosnia, but I'm sure it'll involve a bunch of stupid paperwork.

I've also started guitar lessons, am painting on occasion, and had a friend visit for the last week. It's certainly been eventful!

I'm definitely excited about the next couple of months here. I'm also very excited about Dane's arrival, our travel together and our arrival home. Ah the adventures of now. What an interesting 'now' to be alive.

Thanks for reading, and hope to write again much sooner.

Sej xx