Friday, October 29, 2010

Departing heading towards a spectacular arrival!




There’s been a major shift in my journey to Europe. My beautiful boyfriend Dane has arrived (that was a month ago now) and we have covered a lot of ground since his arrival. Our trip so far has consisted of a couple of weeks in Bosnia, including a trip to Dubrovnik with our friend Pavel, a short stint with family in the north of Bosnia, a night in Zagreb and just under a week in Budapest, Hungary. We have been in Egypt for about a week now, having spent our first couple of days in chaotic Cairo and the other five in super chilled out Dahab. Never thought I’d be one of those people that pulls a laptop out while in transit, but here I am, typing in the dark on a 8 hour bus from Dahab back to Cairo. This part of the trip has been jam packed with adventure and inspiration, and some hilarious moments of oblivion (I thought I lost my wallet for a second time and Dane thought he got robbed in Cairo...but both times the precious stuff was recovered...thank you universe!).

With all the bus-catching, bag lugging, eating (amazing food!), dodging shams, sun catching, swimming, snorkelling, reading, chatting, general travel shenanigans, I’ve developed my ability to sleep anywhere even more so than I thought possible. Keeping things light and going with the randomness that comes with constant movement and new places has become pretty natural. Dane’s good at laughing at what may at first appear to be too much of a compromise. But then again, I think it’s been a nice two way road, the travel companion in him has been very welcome after 4 months of solace.

There’s something that has shifted in me as a result of this whole trip though. I’ve now completed the Bosnian and Croatian part of my journey, and what an incredible ride it was. I have only a small gauge for the significant impact that part of my trip had on me, or will have on me in the future. It kind of sounds like a bit of a general and overarching comment about a very layered experience, but I think the effects of this part of my life will only come to surface and make themselves known as I, in parallel and almost separate, delve deeper below the surface to witness the enormity of the iceberg.

There were a number of parts or aspects to leaving. The first and obvious one is physically departing. The second is saying ‘goodbye, for now’ to the amazing friends made in Sarajevo. The third was packing my things and sorting what is to come with me for the rest of the journey. The fourth was saying farewells to the place that I made home for 3 months, my little haven nestled in the hills. The fifth, and possibly one of the most important was actually consciously leaving Bosnia and trying to keep my mind connected to what my body was doing automatically…leaving.

I can’t really say that it’s easy. I’ve had spurs of realization throughout the last ten days or so that I’m not actually going to be going back to Sarajevo this time. I’m not on a short trip away to go see family or a new place, and that after this final leg of travel I’m actually going home. Staying present and knowing that I’ve just spent the last 4 or so months working my little butt off trying to reconstruct my childhood, connect with relatives and a land that was a significant but distant mystery to me has been relatively difficult. At times I’ve felt like I was kind of not really doing much, you know, slacking off, not working, not actively pursuing something that’s part of that social norm…maybe. For example, I wasn’t employed, I wasn't studying, I wasn’t doing something that took the good part of a week, had no major commitments, and settling into a pretty simple lifestyle. When I stripped away the activities and people that I usually define myself by when I’m back home, the stuff that was left bare was in reality the stuff that actually defines me – me. It was kind of like staring in a mirror and having conversations about the things that shaped me – so it’s like talking to your child self, your adolescent self, your young adult self, and finally the self that you know now – pretty incredible and powerful stuff.

In the first weeks of being exposed to this new reflective kind of activity, it kind of felt like I had been placed at the foot of a mountain and was told to work out a way to climb over it in the next few months. I had to maintain it and sort of self-direct my learning, the whole time making sure I feel like I’m actually being productive. It’s a bit difficult to put into words, but when everything that you’re used to is left behind, dormant, and all you have is a clean slate and some basic starting points (and 24 hours in every day) I felt as though I could be ‘doing’ much more. When I went through my weeks and explored my surroundings, saw places, met people and got a bit of an idea of where I stood with my family, I actually started to really embrace what was happening. I was gathering memories that would serve my current/present self in the now. When I consciously realised this, I truly started to enjoy my trip. This was the hard part to leave behind in the end. I did feel ready though, and am still really looking forward to getting back to Melbourne and starting on a range of projects, ideas, career stuff, list goes on.

One of the brilliant aspects of this whole journey, and something that I’m grateful for, is that I actually got my shit together and did it. I’ve been dreaming about it for a few years, daydreaming about what it feels like to have the guts and the adventurous spirit needed to do it. Giving myself the space to go over things as many times as I need to (about anything and everything) became almost a meditative exercise. During the preparations for this trip my plans changed a lot, but what it morphed into was kind of back to its original form. It all started with a fantasy of sitting in a small cafe in the old town of Sarajevo, and watching the people go by – taking in what it was all about. I wanted to sit back and allow for Bosnia to define itself for me so that I could mesh together the geographically scattered ‘Sejla’s’ from around the world. And it did just that.

Thanks for reading!

Sej x

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Lukomir Mostar Srebrenica





The last couple of weekends have been filled with mini trips out to various parts of Bosnia so that I can get a bit of an idea of what the country looks like along the way, and to see other cities. I don't think I really need to explain!

The first location was the highest and most isolated village in Bosnia, called Lukomir. It's about an hour's drive out of Sarajevo and on the way you pass the Olympic ski fields of '84. It was a beautiful misty drive up on a Sunday morning. I went with my friend Juliet, her boss' dad and sister, their neighbour (affectionately named Dedo) and a French traveller and friend. Dzevad and Nedzla (the dad and sister of Haris, who is Juliet's boss and friend) were going to go visit and old lady in the village who has lost all her family. They were taking winter supplies to her because they had heard that she was living in the isolated village all on her own over winter, with no access to or from the nearest town. She is over 80 years old. I was honored to be able to go on such a trip, and be part of the delivery.

The village itself is nestled in amongst beautiful mountains and has a certain clear sparseness. The vegetation consists mostly of grasses and a few shrubs, and the animals that were visible to us were mostly birds and insects. The people in the village are shepherds, mostly sheep, but also have cows for milk. They also have cats and chickens - all of which seemed fairly well looked after. The houses are almost indescribable. They are made mostly of a cool grey stone, and have iron rooves. Their shape is mostly square and all but a few are single storey. They have been there for hundreds of years, and the people that own them live there over summer, and have other homes in Sarajevo for winter (or in a town closer to Sarajevo where they have better access to food and other products).

The people of Lukomir are used to the travellers that come to see their way of secluded life, and understand modern technology even if they don't have access to their own. They are warm, welcoming (though I've heard being Bosnian helps), and full of stories. The striking aspect of the whole trip was the honesty of the place. There were no facades, no masks, just people and this vast nothingness in all directions. We ate sirnica (a pastry filled with cheese) and grah (beans) and drank coffee with the locals, and had a look around the village. We bought a few locally made products and drove away. It was an enlightening experience.

The second trip that I have done was a day trip to Mostar, the largest city in Hercegovina (sort of the southern state). I went with two good friends, and we met up with one of the locals for a walk around town and lunch. Mostar is completely different to Sarajevo. It is a city in a valley and is largely and fiercely separated into two ethnic halves - one for the Bosnian Muslims and the other for the Bosnian Catholics (originating from the bordering Croatia). During the last war, the Croatian forces (or people)that were fighting in Mostar were fighting for the Bosnian Muslim side, but at a point throughout the war they changed sides. The Bosnian Muslims were then fighting against a much bigger force. I don't really know enough about this specific battle and region because I have yet to do a formal tour of the city, but all I know is that there is a very clear divide.

The city itself is beautiful, and well worth visiting. The train trip between Sarajevo and Mostar alone is worth the trip. Mostar is famous for it's old bridge that was built by the Ottomans about 427 years ago. 'Most' in Bosnian means bridge, and a 'mostar' is a keeper of the bridge, so that is how the city got it's name. During the war, this bridge was blown up for no other reason than cruelty and for the sake of destroying culture and history. The Bosnian Croat forces broke the city's heart. However, it was reconstructed and now stands as a symbol of peace. The bridge is also famous for diving off. There are a number of diving schools in Mostar, who perform for tourists during the warmer months. They jump the 24m from the bridge's peak into the Neretva River below. It looks like an exhilarating jump, but one I would be terrified to do considering the many whirlpools in the river. We saw two divers do it while we were there - all I can say is WOW!

The third place that I visited was Srebrenica, which was a couple of days ago. This place was by far the most traumatic and raw place that I've been to in Bosnia. It is the location of the biggest act of genocide that was committed since WW2, in July of 1995. I won't go into details here because I've found it incredibly difficult to unwind since the weekend, but basically - in a span of days, it has been estimated that over 8,500 men and boys were slaughtered by the Bosnian Serb forces purely because of their ethnic and religious background. They were herded like sheep, shot in the back in various locations around Bosnia and then buried in mass graves all over what is now Republika Srpska (or the Republic of Serbia, a supposed separate entity from actual Serbia itself). The graves were then dug up months later (and bodies were torn apart and seperated) and then reburied in other locations. This was done using large mechanical equipment, in order to attempt to cover up the genocide. The whole world watched this happen, and the whole world allowed it. The bodies are still being identified (painfully slow process), and mass burial ceremonies are held every year since it happened. This year over 720 bodies were laid to rest.

Potocari (the location of where it all started, which is just outside of Srebrenica) now has a memorial centre and harem (Muslim graveyard) for the fallen. We visited this place, and it was chilling.

I cannot begin to describe my tears, fear, frustration, anger, sadness, terror, and angst last Sunday. It was an awful yet important experience.

The peace agreement that was signed by the military forces of former Yugoslavia is called the Dayton Agreement, and was signed in the US after Srebrenica happened. This agreement has allowed the Bosnian Serb forces to have pretty much half of Bosnia and they renamed this half the Republika Srpska. So not only did the international community allow for the genocide, they also actively participated in handing over exactly what the Serbian forces wanted.

I've been avoiding writing this blog for a couple of days, but felt I should before some of the feelings and experiences become less raw.

Sorry to leave it on a bit of a low note, but the key factor here is that I walked away feeling extremely lucky and grateful for what I have, and how lucky my family was. I'm very positive about having come on this journey, but am looking forward to leaving in a lot of ways. It has been intense, to say the least.

Thanks for reading, the next blog will most likely be a final one from Bosnia!

Sej xx

Thursday, September 2, 2010

A seasonal change and a Bajram on the horizon


The seasons are starting to shift, both here and in Melbourne and I feel a bit of a change in tone. The next month or so will be an interesting mix of the familiar and the new.

Hello to my loyal followers...and a warm welcome to those who only just clicked on. When I say warm..I mean literally! We're all currently sharing the amazing warmth of autumn/spring weather, where you wake up to that amazing crisp morning air, and take in the afternoon sunshine.

The last couple of weeks have been pretty interesting. I've started to develop the green curriculum that I've been mentioning. Basically, what it consists of at the moment is a 'Contents' page full of themes around the environment and sustainability. The aim is to develop each of these themes into something tangible and something that can be presented to a room full of hormonal Bosnian teenagers. What a task it's become! In the last week I've been doing a bit of research for the first major theme (and one that appears to be the biggest mountain in the world right now): water. So, what have I found out?

The water and wastewater systems here in Sarajevo are relatively complex - as far as I was aware to this point, there was no water authority and the water management systems were lacking from all directions. But it has come to my attention that it's not quite that simple. The authority (maybe not exactly the same in the way that the system is run in Australia, but still an authoritative organisation that's funded by the government) is called 'Vodovod i Kanalizacija d.o.o Sarajevo'. They are responsible for providing clean drinking water and sanitation for Sarajevo - but I wasn't really able to get too much information out of their website. What I'm surprised by is the amount of water that's lost through leakage and other losses annually - a figure greater than what I expected, and comparable to that what is used by people annually.

I've also realised that there's a significant ratio of text that I struggle with in terms of technical language..something that is hindering my ability to gather informative data about the various green topics. Bosnian is a bit enigmatic sometimes!

The lessons or workshops that we're looking at developing once we have the basic information together is going to be a mix of theory and practice to make it more interesting. The practice will hopefully include games an activities that allow the kids to stay interested for one thing, but also imprint some of the important points for each of the themes. I had this view that each theme would be presented as a stand alone lesson, but my friend Adis (the guy that I'm working with) seems to think that it would be better to do it all as a one time thing and hit the kids with a massive weekend of green learning instead. Unfortunately I won't be here to implement the workshops and see how our ideas go in practice, but I'm going to stay in touch with Adis and hopefully keep on helping from a distance.

One over-riding feeling at the moment - I want to tell the kids everything I know...I want to do a massive brain dump and just blast them with the information overload and share with them the complexities of true sustainability and climate change. Thrill them with the concept - and blow their minds at how epically we seem to have globalised everything - almost to the point of no return. But I guess that's something I have to contain, and just keep it as stagnant potential energy that will keep my passion for the environment going. Scare them a bit at a time!

In between the bits of information gathering, I've been doing a teeny bit of translation work and a lot of hanging out with friends that are leaving Sarajevo pretty soon. I've managed to see a few hills that I haven't really seen before - but have mostly been keeping it pretty low key. It's been good!

Next on the agenda - disco fever dancing tomorrow night (ah yeah) and then going back to Gradiska early next week. My grandma Hanifa is leaving the country to go back to her winter home in Sweden and this will be the last (and I'm sure emotional) time I'll see her for this trip. It's also Bajram next week, which is the big celebration at the end of Ramadan, the fasting month of Islam. This will be the first time I spend Bajram with the grandparents in I can't even remember how long. Pretty excited.

When I come back, it's a couple of weeks of hanging in Sarajevo and then Dane arrives - I can't even begin to put my excitement and anticipation for seeing this man into words.

That's it for now!

Thank you for reading.

Sej xx

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Polako, bona.


There's a word here in Sarajevo that's used a lot, and it resonates with the Aussie in me - polako (poh-la-ko). It has a simple and humble meaning: slowly (direct translation), do what you're doing with ease (indirect) - or in Aussie terms, take it easy, mate.

So I've been trying to take that advice a little bit. Ease up and take pleasure in things like the fact that I can eat breakfast on my bedroom window sill while looking over the overgrown hedge, and take in the view of Sarajevo from my perched little spot on the hill. Take pleasure in the fact that I live on a hill - be humbled by the fact that not everything is around the corner - and that it takes time and effort to get to places and do all the shopping I need in one go. Then there's also the ease one has to force on themselves when you get your first fine for fare evasion on a tram (fuckers!) and the complete and utter disappointment that comes with realising your wallet's gone missing in Bosnia.

In the last couple of weeks I've parted with my wallet which I got from my first ever Woodford experience and all it's precious contents, I've been mildly homesick while watching the crazy freak show circus that is our federal election, I've gone on a pretty wild overnight train experience to Zagreb in Croatia in order to vote at the Australian embassy with my friend Juliet, I've started a project called 365 (you take a photo that defines your day for 365 days in order to document your life over a year), I've met a radical environmentalist - a novelty here in Bosnia, I've had a friend visit for a week, I've hosted my first couch surfer (most likely to be future housemate back in Melbourne...crazy), and I've discovered the wonderful world of DM - the German Priceline-esque store that makes me feel like I'm back home with it's earl grey tea and muesli.

Deep breath.

Wow. It's been a big couple of weeks when I put it like that!

I've noticed myself falling into a bit of a trap though - my life has become a bit of a permanent holiday in some ways. I've committed myself to translation work with an environmental activist group, but the work is freelance so I take my work home. Did I mention I have a degree in procrastination? A PhD, in fact! On the agenda for the next 6 weeks- hopefully get into a routine of walking these hills that surround me (don't worry I'll go where there aren't any land mines!), keep on practicing guitar, and hopefully get into more of this environmental activist work.

One thing that I will be starting this week is setting up a green curriculum for primary schools. It's a total pilot project that I'm going to be working on with my new friend Adis, and we have no true idea of how successful it'll be in practice, but we're gonna give it a damn good shot. My idea was to set up a set of 5 or 6 themes surrounding the most important environmental issues in Sarajevo, using a common lesson plan or template proforma. That's about as far as I've got with my idea at this stage - but hoping to turn it into something practical by the time I'm due to leave!

The next week will also consist of potentially a trip to Gradiska (depending on one of my grandma's plans) and a canyoning trip - that's right...I've signed up for some extreme sport action next weekend - let's hope I come back in one piece. I'm a little nervous, but...well...fuck it. Polako, and it'll all be fine.

And on that note, I am going to spare you my political commentary and leave this blog void of politics.

Hope you are all well, full and happy my darling readers.

Thanks and polako, bona!

Sej xx

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Settle in Sarajevo





Woa! It's been a freaky deaky while, hasn't it?

I haven't blogged for what feels like almost a month and to be honest I don't really know where to begin, almost! I've been working pretty hard at settling in the ol' town of Sarajevo.

So what's the hap's?

Last time I checked, there are major floods in Pakistan which are now considered to be worse than the tsunami that devastated the world not so long ago; Mexican waters are still a complete mess and BP's CEO resigned; Tony Abbott is a tosser among tossers in the land of politics (thank you GetUp! for your awesome ad campaign highlighting this particular dimwit's attitude towards wom*n!); my parents have painted the house; my sister's, partner's, brother's, wife is pregnant; my boyfriend's dad's driving from Melbourne to Perth for charity; little Winona entered the world (congrats Nat and Jaes - she's freakin' beautiful!); and today was the first day of Ramadan - the Muslim month of fasting. And I've hit the half way point of my trip!

A lot can happen in a matter of weeks! Congratulations Simon and Sarah, if you're out there somewhere reading this!

So what's been going on in the world of Sarajevo? Well, a lot actually. I arrived back to what is now my home about two weeks ago with the intention to stick around for about a month. I spent the first week or so 'faffing' around and getting random bits and pieces sorted out for my flat. I also attended some cool events for the Sarajevo International Film Festival. I had a profound realisation after seeing one movie in particular, which had small snippets of Melbourne life. I worked it out.

What exactly, did I work out?

Well - frankly - my identity. I think I've got it, finally. I know where I belong and why. I'm Australian. I have a very deep connection to the land here in Bosnia, but not for the same reasons that I have connections to the land in Australia. I've spent so much of my life in Australia and so much of what Australia represents is familiar to me. Even with it's somewhat deranged and un-inspirational politicians, I'm completely in love with that little island of ours.

How stupidly simple is that?

In saying all this though, I don't want to discredit or undermine the beautiful experiences, people, landscapes and musical fun that I've experienced in Bosnia and Croatia. This place has something very old, wise, and deeply moving about it. I feel like I understand the culture a little better than ever in my life and I can safely say that I am slightly defensive of this patch of Earth, but I couldn't live here for longer than intended for this trip. Huh! What a relief. Now I know.

So, after this spectacular bit of work aside (by work I mean working out my identity), I was left a little unsettled. It's been difficult to know exactly where to begin a 2 month stint in one particular location, and to know that I have no specific commitments. So I started working on the practicalities. I've been looking for a bit of volunteer work and managed to find a couple of organisations that focus on environmental awareness and activism, and eco tourism. This has been very exciting. This city is all about growth at the moment. It's all about developing a status in the world which allows for people to visit without thinking that it's a war torn zone.

The city is filled with backpackers. I hear an Australian accent almost on a daily basis. I definitely see at least 10 foreigners within the first 10 minutes of being in the Old Town. I have a feeling that the next 5-10 years in BiH will shift dramatically, on both the touristic and political scenes. Why? Well, when the backpackers start to brag about the affordability of travelling the Balkans, the more conservative (and let's face it - richer) tourists will follow - and this will change the market for local business. Politicians will be driven to promote the country...and I'm hoping will finally join the EU. I'm also hoping that they'll drop the ridiculous policy that stops Bosnian citizens from leaving the country without a visa. At the moment, if anyone here wants to travel anywhere...and I mean anywhere outside of this country, they have to apply for a visa - which is an arduous and long process of dodging red tape, bureaucratic bullshit, and nasty public sector workers. It's a nightmare. I wish that the intelligent and energetic youth of Sarajevo could leave as freely as Australian youth to discover the wonderful parts of Western Europe, UK, Africa, Asia, Australia, USA and...anywhere their heart's desire.

If only the beautifully giving people of Sarajevo and Bosnia could experience things through travel and bring their newly acquired self-learning back to work, to life and eventually grow old here, knowing for certain that this is the place for them. Just like I've had the chance to discover that Australia is where I want to do all those things.

So on another political note, I get to vote twice in the next couple of months. I hear that the election is going to be interesting back home. I am planning a little overnight trip to Zagreb with my friend in order to vote (it's the closest place we can do it, and our postal ballet papers haven't arrived on time...thanks Australia!)which should be loads of fun. I have yet to work out how to register here in Bosnia, but I'm sure it'll involve a bunch of stupid paperwork.

I've also started guitar lessons, am painting on occasion, and had a friend visit for the last week. It's certainly been eventful!

I'm definitely excited about the next couple of months here. I'm also very excited about Dane's arrival, our travel together and our arrival home. Ah the adventures of now. What an interesting 'now' to be alive.

Thanks for reading, and hope to write again much sooner.

Sej xx

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Labour on a Leash






The last few weeks have become a bit of a blur - after settling into a place for a few days in Sarajevo, I hit the road about a week and a half ago to spend some time with family and go down to the beautiful Dalmatian coast of Croatia. It was magnificant, with it's clear, warm waters and beautiful cliffs, vegetation, fauna and smiling happy people. I had a really great time.

I was on the island of Brac, which is a 50 minute ferry ride south of Split for those that know their geography. My cousin Marijana and I stayed in a student dorm in a small town on the island called Pucisce. This town hasn't really been hit by tourist stampeads yet so it was pretty quiet, and we got a taste of the normal lifestyle that goes on among the locals. So no Euro-Turbofolk night clubbing, but one has to cut their losses when under such extreme circumstances.

We seriously struck gold.

The place we were in was in line with a 4-star hotel and had a room to ourselves, breakfast and dinner every day, our own bathroom and fridge space, and across the road from one of the best swimming spots in town...all for the price of a typical night in a Split hostel. I got a bit of a tan!

We also visited the other side of the island - a town called Bol, which has the most famous beach on the island (pictured above). It really is something else! I couldn't quite believe the beauty of it all and that I was there. I missed out on snorkelling and other water sports though, due to lack of planning this time, but we spent all day lounging on the beach and swimming.

In among all of this pristine beauty and amazing landscape, I also found out about Julia Gillard's climate policy and her inability to recognise the public's cries for action. Talk about a sinker.

From the snippets of media releases I've read and Julia Gillard's speech for the election anouncement, Australian politics seems to be lagging, still. Australia may have an Environmental Protection Authority, recycling (though off-shore half the time!), world class water treatment, and other environmental policies, we seem to be lagging in terms of climate action just as much as Bosnia - which lacks all of the above.

It's not fair that Australia's young generation that is now entering the workforce and influential voting basket is not getting what it was promised - firmer action on climate change.

I happily voted for K-Rudd and labour in 2007, and nervously crossed my fingers in front of a friend's TV as I followed the election. I cheered and hoo-rahed as he won more and more votes. I breathed a sigh of relief when I thought 'now my thoughts and actions may actually come to fruition'. But I was fooled - by a government made up of politicians that are led around Canberra by the mining and coal lobbyists.

Labour is on a leash. It's complicated, simply put.

The environmental movement in Australia, and in fact around the world, is campaigning and fighting for social, political, financial, environmental, economic and moral reasons. Never, ever have we all had to fight for all of these things at the same time. All previous social movements have had one focus - for example the Feminist Revolution, the Gay Rights movement, Carson's fight against DDT and other atmospheric pollutants - all one major focus.

Climate change literally changes everything.

Our tiny global village that we've created is struggling - we've bitten off more than we can chew and now the people and it's government are squirming.

Australia's mining industry has significant leverage and good reason to fight. It's our bread and butter, and it has been for many terms for many governments. It's made Australia competitive on the global market, and raised/maintained our standard of living - Australia really is a superior country to live and love. Am I wrong?

BUT.

For how long can we sustain this way of life if our north, south, east and west coasts all suffer major climatic shifts in the next 10 years? Where's that outlook Ms. Gillard? How will we 'create a better future, together' if together by your definition excludes generation X and Y - who have voiced in numerous ways that they want action. Remember the election in 2007 when you got a bit of a pay rise and a better job? Remember we voted you in because your government outlined a better approach and more desirable outlook on life in 2020-2050?

I'm not going to spend time looking for quotes from IPCC reports, and other scientific proof that climate change is in fact happening now - it's a waste of time. Everyone knows that climate change is happening, everywhere around the world. Get a grip, Ms Gillard. You have fucking consensus.

My 72 year old grandmother experienced her first flood in the north of Bosnia last month - never in her memory had such rains fallen this time of year. They also had a longer and harder winter. The mosqiotoes are in the gazzillions. Fruit and veg is a bit slow this year. Things ARE changing.

Australia has so much potential, as a rich and young country. We have the resources and brain power to create a renewable energy baseload power supply nation wide. We're just lacking a leader who's willing to chew on the leash or choke a little to get it's owner to do what it wants. We've got a little terrior for a leader when what we need is a great dane (punn entirely intended).

I feel a little uncertain about Australia's future, and uneasy about our globalised world - what have we actually come to?

With big hopes for the future, and drive to kick ass when I vote and later when I get home, thanks for reading.

Sej x

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Bosna and it's lack of functioning toilets...

OK, so when you go to a country that's in the developmental/reconstructive phase you're not really supposed to expect things to be perfect. But Bosna, to my complete annoyance, has this strange inability to get their shit together....literally!

When I went to check out the first apartment I ever looked at last week, the place was really sweet as were the owners, but the bathroom consisted of a 1x1.5m space, with a small sink, a squat toilet, and a shower head for showering ABOVE THE SQUAT TOILET. Mmmm...yeah.

Let's not get into the nooks and crannies of public toilets except that you should ALWAYS carry tissues, and if there's a roll of paper, steal half of it on your way out. Ha..

But, on a more serious note (!), I have a new place in Sarajevo! Eyyyyyyy!!!!! It's got it's little quirks, like things going wrong with the toilet, but after two days of cleaning (and a few odd jobs in the next week or two), this place is turning out to be quite sweet. I've managed to score the bottom floor of a house to myself. Upstairs are the owners - a family of 8. There's mum, Amela who's 35. Dad, Sadik, 42. Then the kids...Merijem (15), Aisha (13), Fatima (9ish), Lejla (7), Amina (5) and Muhamed (3). And the cat whose name is Chiribu or something....didn't quite get that one!

They're the cutest kids. Yesterday day I enjoyed Amela's eggs for breakfast with Muhamed, who loved the salami I shared with him. Think I won his love..he visited me about another 6 times during the day, each time with a new stain on his t-shirt, a new dose of that 3 year old snotty charm and babbly conversation. They're all really smiley and happy go lucky. It's probably got something to do with the fact that their contact with the internet and TV is quite limited, and this house is nestled amongst fruit trees and greenery - meaning they're outside most of the day.

Sarajevo is a pretty old city, so when you're as close to the centre as I am, you don't really expect a garden. It's nice!

In my last blog I mentioned working in an environmnetal activist group. Well, I had a snoop around and found a group called Eko Akcija - who mostly work on projects as they crop up but their main aim is to bring awareness about the environment to the public, and highlight the governments short comings. An example: there's a super highway getting built and it's supposed to be going through Prenj (which is a national park). So Eko Akcija isn't against the highway, they'd just like to see more responsible development...cool! So I've told them that I have some time and they've asked me to maybe help with some translation, and also some water related issues. I'll be volunteering about 2-3 days a week maybe, but I'm starting properly in late July/early August.

The other topic I promised was politics. Very briefly, Bosnia and Hercegovina has 3 presidents. Each one represents the major ethnic groups, the Muslim Bosnians, Catholic Croatians, and Greek Orthodox Serbs. They have a four year term as per usual, except that they take turns of being leader for 8 months. Each president is part of a different office, meaning different administration. This means that a lot of tax payers money ends up in the poorly maintained toilet, figuratively speaking.

This sort of government, as far as the street has taught me, gets very little done and the politicians have far too much money. It also means that the essential departments such as water utilities, healthcare, power, civil works and so on are always behind with work, and there's always someone else to blame.

Water authorities, to my amazement, don't exist. I'm not entirely sure about who does the water treatment here and to what capacity. As far as I've been able to construct from conversations with a few different groups of people, the sewers here are combined. For those who don't know what that means - combined sewers put the stormwater from the streets and gutters together with the wastewaters from homes and industry. This sort of water conveyance was phased out in Australia and the States decades ago. So I suspect this combined water is directed to a river somewhere. It's a little scary. And a little freaky that no one really seems to know what happens to water!

There's an election here in November, and in Australia as far as I've been told. I get to vote in two seperate countries in one month! Two votes one day, queen of the world tomorrow!!

Alright, I'll stop punishing you all.

Enough toilet humour.

Thanks for reading and for all your awesome feedback :-)

Sej xx